Lifestyle |
Young people's preferences for lighter food boost the healthy economy | |
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(Left) A staff member makes malatang for customers in Tianshui, Gansu Province on July 22 A post on lifestyle and e-commerce app Xiaohongshu shows typical Chinese-style light food (XINHUA)
The Chinese slang term tieqiubiao, or "putting on autumn fat," refers to gaining a little weight in early autumn by eating meals rich in protein and fat, including stewed meats, dumplings and nuts. Since ancient times, people have measured their weight at lixia, one of the 24 solar terms that marks the beginning of summer, and compared it to their weight at liqiu, the beginning of autumn, to figure out how much weight they have lost due to the sweltering summer, hoping to gain sufficient weight to weather the upcoming cold season. This autumn, however, many are choosing to depart from tradition—instead shaking off the extra weight by eating what is referred to as qingshi, or literally, "light food." "I think it's a post-Olympic phenomenon. After you spent the summer watching those well-shaped athletes on TV, you tend to reflect on your diet at midnight," 21-year-old Li Xinwei, a college student in Beijing, told Beijing Review. Li is not alone in being influenced by this year's Paris Olympic Games. Over the summer, interest in athletes' light food diets surged on social media platforms. A post on lifestyle sharing and e-commerce app Xiaohongshu shows the menu of Chinese style light food (SCREENSHOT)
Healthier pursuits According to statistics from consulting firm iiMedia Research, qingshi became popular in China in the early 2010s, when people's pursuit of improved appearance increased in the wake of the country's economic takeoff. Between 2015 and 2018, more than 1 billion yuan ($140 million) was invested in the new industry, which is defined as the production and sale of meals low in calories, fat and carbohydrates and high in fiber and protein. According to Li, people within her social circle are once again paying attention to qingshi this year because they want not only to lose weight, like they did when the concept flourished for the first time, but also to become healthier and build up shapely physiques close to those of Olympic athletes. "I think it's great that people are paying more attention to healthier diets after watching the Olympics," Li said. "My roommates and I have been ordering qingshi meals from a nearby restaurant for dinner this week, and it costs me about 30 yuan ($4.2) per meal. In addition to switching to these meals, we've also joined a nearby gym to build more muscle this winter." Since entering the market in the 2010s, qingshi brands have gone through a phase of rapid development despite the temporary slowdown during the COVID-19 pandemic and now enjoy nationwide popularity. iiMedia reports that in 2023, 75.8 percent of their surveyed Chinese consumers ate qingshi, either purchased or prepared at home, at least once a week, with 4.4 percent eating it on a daily basis. According to Puffy Yuanyuan, a very popular food vlogger on Chinese lifestyle and e-commerce app Xiaohongshu, a typical qingshi bowl contains whole grains, fruit, vegetables and high-quality proteins. The vlogger, who sampled bowls from a variety of restaurants, said typical ingredients include buckwheat, oats, corn, tomato, eggs, beef, nuts and chicken, and that prices vary from 30 to 80 yuan ($4.2-11.2) based on ingredients and size. Most ingredients are either boiled or steamed and are accompanied by low-calorie seasonings. The total calories for each meal are labeled on the menu and usually range from 200 to 500 calories. Among the posts promoting the virtues of qingshi on Xiaohongshu are an increasing number complaining about its high price. Statistics from the 2023 iiMedia report suggest that 47.1 percent of regular consumers of light food believed it was too expensive. "Eat qingshi for every meal for one whole week and you will definitely feel yourself becoming lighter—the effect is instant," Puffy Yuanyuan said in one July video. "But the downside is that you will find your wallet becoming lighter even faster." After making the video, the vlogger switched from ordering qingshi meals on delivery platforms to making them at home. "As making most light food does not require complicated cooking methods, such as frying or roasting, I think it is feasible for most of you. The only problem is that you need to purchase a wide array of ingredients and make sure they are fresh enough, and follow a registered dietitian's online advice," she told her fans in a subsequent video. Under the hashtag "qingshi meals that are easy to prepare," thousands of food testing and preparing content creators are sharing their meals and the price difference between making and purchasing them on Xiaohongshu. The posts are in turn drawing thousands of comments in support of making preparing qingshi at home a long-term habit. A swift switch In addition to switching from ready-made to home-made to save money, another prominent trend on Xiaohongshu is the adaptation of Chinese cooking methods and seasonings to make qingshi more flavorful. Consumers of pre-prepared qingshi are currently underwhelmed by flavor options, and according to the 2023 iiMedia report, 49.1 percent of regular customers wanted greater diversity in the flavors on offer. "Many people tend to associate light food with Western food, including bagels, sandwiches, oatmeal porridge, or salads, since the first batch of the qingshi brands that flourished in China are mostly from Europe or America, such as [international sandwich chain] Subway," Zhou Teng, a chef and food vlogger on Xiaohongshu, told Beijing Review. "But the essence of qingshi is that it's light, using low-calorie ingredients; and Chinese dishes can be light too. Many brands are making menu shifts to appeal to customers who prefer Chinese dishes." For example, Anhui-based Home Original Chicken, a top 10 fast-food brand in China, has partnered with Boohee.com, a popular health, weight and figure evaluation platform, and released a series of Chinese light food meals this year with an average of 350 calories each. Each meal, containing chicken, vegetables and grains, is cooked in a Chinese style with Chinese flavors. Yuanji Yunjiao, a dumpling brand originating from Guangdong Province, launched a special series of "light dumplings" this summer, transforming the carbohydrate-heavy food to a light food by using konjak and rye wrappers and more nutritionally balanced fillings. These innovations sparked a wave of discussion on social media about the taste and potential of Chinese qingshi. "Actually, many Chinese dishes already meet the basic criteria for qingshi, including famous Sichuan dish spicy hand-torn chicken, dongbei dabancai (a cold salad dish from northeast China), cold-tossed shredded potato and carrot, boiled lettuce with oyster sauce, a popular dish in south China, and 'white-boiled' shrimp, one of the eight famous dishes of Cantonese cuisine," Zhou said. "These dishes are more accessible for Chinese people in terms of price and taste, allowing them to achieve their health goals without adapting to new diets." Another Chinese dish on its way to becoming qingshi is the famous Sichuan dish malatang, a type of hot pot dish that has become popular internationally and includes a wide range of vegetables, carbohydrates and meats boiled in hot, greasy and spicy pots, often accompanied by a sesame paste dipping sauce. To make the dish lighter, young gourmets tend to omit the high-calorie seasonings and ingredients such as rice cakes, noodles and meat balls. "Malatang is one of the top options for qingshi fans. Skip the carbohydrates and heavy seasonings, and you can get yourself a cheap bowl of light food," Zhou added. (Print edition title: Keep It Light) Copyedited by G.P. Wilson Comments to zhangyage@cicgamericas.com |
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